Valley Magazine
Janice Wald Henderson, Valley Magazine - Aug 2004
Vibrato's got a buzz. You feel it the moment you walk through the door. It starts with the look and lasts through the music. I wish we had more places like that in the Val.
Theatrical and oh-so hip, this jazz and supper club is bathed in chic earthtones, with blond wood walls, high ceiling, giant mirrors, and a sexy corner fireplace. Retro-style lamps cast soft shadows, making everyone look good.
Seating is two-tiered, in a horseshoe around the stage, with additional tables and private rooms upstairs in a balcony area. Someone spent money making this place look good. The curvy wood and granite bar is in itself a showstopper; you gotta love the artsy musician sculptures (Satchmo among them) mounted above it. The bar crowd skews older than most – but this is Bel-Air. All in all, it's a pretty scene, lots of handsome people sipping straightforward martinis; green apple would be declasse here.
Hostesses are as glam as the decor. But no worries, they're warm and gracious when they greet you. It's not about attitude here.
What's most impressive is the good music offered nightly. And unless someone special is performing, there's no cover charge. Early in the evening, a jazz trio might play, softly, so you can easily converse. Around 8:30 p.m., a larger group takes the stage and the music grows considerably louder. (Hint: If you want to chat throughout the night, ask for a table in the back of the room.)
The musicians and the sound system are really good. Of course, such quality is understandable as Herb Alpert is on o Vibrato's partners. Noted restaurateurs Gregg and Bob Smith (Parkway Grill, among many eateries) are the other principals.
The Smith brothers have a knack of knowing what diners want. Keep it simple, keep it interesting, seems to be their motto....
... The bread basket, generously filled with raisin-nut bread, skinny breadsticks, seeded sourdough and cheese bread, is a lovely beginning. Starters, like diver scallops with creamy corn cake, tomato soup with basil garlic croutons, BBQ braised short rib skewers, and citrus gravlax with potato knish, stick to the simple-and-interesting formula...
... Roasted beet salad is a better bet. Lovely red and gold beets are dressed with caramelized shallot vinaigrette and tossed with aged goat cheese...
... Homemade fresh mozzarella and beefsteak tomato salad has its own appeal. The cheese is lovely -soft and lightly tangy- and the balsamic vinaigrette tastes fine.
Another creative ploy, entrees are categorized by cooking techniques and divided into grilled, roasted and braised dishes. Grilled prime beef (aged 40 days) includes New York strip, porterhouse, rib eye, filet mignon and hanger steak (kudos for the latter, a cut rarely seen on LA menus)...
... Six different sauces are offered with grilled entrees. I took a cue form a guest at the next table and asked for all six. The red wine sauce, with its distinctive cabernet flavor, and the classically perfect Bearnaise, were my favorites...
... Among the roasted entrees, veal chop Parmigiana earned happy grins at my table. The portion is gargantuan; a giant chop on the bone is pounded just until it's thin enough to absorb the good flavors of the tomato sauce yet thick enough to give you something to chew. I loved the blanket of homemade mozzarella, enough cheese yet it didn't smother the veal.
Skate, another fish rarely seen on L.A. Menus, comes with roasted artichokes, lemons and caper berries. It's a surefire winner. The fish is moist and delicate, and the citrusy sauce provides the perfect balance...
... The wine list is extensive, representing most wine regions worldwide. And the delicate glasses are a good indication that Vibrato takes its wines seriously. Desserts can be delicious. Warm Valrhona chocolate cake is really a hot, gooey pudding topped with a thin cake-like crust and dusted with powdered sugar. What's not to like? The accompanying fresh blackberries and soft clouds of creme fraiche truly gild this lily.
Apple lingonberry pie also drew cheers at my table. It's buttery, not too sweet, chock-full of fresh apples and berries and topped with fat buttery streusel crumbs...
... Considering that Vibrato is really a jazz venue, its food is better than expected. And there's much to choose from. An evening here is delightful and I, for one, can't wait to go back.
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